Heavy chemistry and cosmetics: petroleum in our shampoos

Chimie lourde et cosmétique : du pétrole dans nos shampoings

Many cosmetics contain substances derived from heavy chemistry. This often-overlooked alliance has significant consequences for health, the environment, and global warming. Discover the behind-the-scenes of cosmetic production, where petrochemicals are integrated into the manufacturing of your hygiene and beauty products.

Heavy Chemistry: Overview and Definition

Heavy chemistry is divided into two sectors: petrochemistry (or organic chemistry) and mineral chemistry. Mineral chemistry produces chemical products from minerals, gases, and metals. Petrochemistry synthesizes substances from petroleum that will be used as raw materials by many industries: automotive, electronics, aerospace, etc.

The cosmetic industry widely incorporates these into its formulas, especially ingredients like silicone, petroleum jelly, glycerin, fluorinated surfactants, thickeners, etc. It also uses plastics in its packaging.

The goal of heavy chemistry is to produce large quantities at a lower cost. This poses problems related to safety, health, pollution, energy consumption, product recycling, etc. It is a considerable source of greenhouse gas emissions. This sector is therefore at the heart of sustainable development challenges.

Petrochemistry: A Polluting Industry at Every Stage

At every stage of their life cycle, substances derived from heavy chemistry are a source of pollution.

Petrochemistry encompasses complex processes, starting with the extraction of crude oil, the harmful consequences of which are no secret:

  • ecosystem degradation;

  • impacts on local communities;

  • production of toxic waste;

  • water consumption;

  • land, water, and air pollution;

  • greenhouse gas emissions;

The obtained petroleum undergoes various chemical transformations to produce industrial raw materials. These production methods are highly polluting and consume large amounts of water and energy. Some manufacturing processes result in molecules that are highly resistant to degradation in the environment and very persistent, known as "forever chemicals."

These substances are ultimately used as ingredients in our hygiene and beauty products. Their elimination is once again a source of pollution. Shampoo, for example, is one of the cosmetics that can contain the most harmful components for health and the environment. Once rinsed, it is completely discharged into wastewater. The thickening agents, silicones, and other petroleum derivatives it contains sometimes end up directly in nature. Being poorly biodegradable, they spread in the environment and are particularly toxic to aquatic ecosystems.

Heavy Chemistry and Cosmetics: A Harmful Cocktail for Health

Certain ingredients, still widely used in the cosmetic industry, are recognized as pollutants, but also as potentially dangerous for health. These include petroleum derivatives such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, and glycerin.

For the cosmetic industry, the dose makes the poison. This is why you can find carcinogenic substances, endocrine disruptors, neurotoxins, allergens, or irritants in small but present proportions in your soaps, shampoos, moisturizers, and deodorants.

The mention "acts on the upper layers of the epidermis" might lead one to believe that these molecules will not penetrate our bodies. However, the absorption rate and the cumulative effects of these ingredients on our bodies are poorly understood. The impact of several chemical substances interacting together on our health is called the cocktail effect. These products, while considered safe individually, can act in combination, thereby increasing the risk of medical problems.

The Precautionary Principle: Complex and Unresponsive Regulation

Beyond prudence and common sense, the precautionary principle has been enshrined in the French constitution since 2005. One might wonder why it is not applied in the face of potential serious risks to our health and our environment. And how such controversial substances can end up in our cosmetic products.

The European cosmetic regulation, applied in France, is one of the most protective in the world. But it is very complex because it relies on several other provisions. Moreover, the different countries of the Union must agree on the texts. There are indeed prohibited substances or whose concentration is limited. However, compromises are made between health interests and industrial constraints.

All this prevents the application of the precautionary principle and delays the regulation or prohibition of harmful substances by several years. Furthermore, these provisions do not take environmental impacts into consideration.

We therefore find ourselves on the market with products whose safety cannot be guaranteed, even though they are compliant with regulations. Faced with this situation, Margerie strictly applies the precautionary principle to all its ingredients, without exception. At the slightest doubt, any suspicious substance is discarded even if European regulations and organic labels authorize it.

➡️ Also read: Impact of the cosmetic industry | the challenge of knowledge

Green Chemistry: A Future Solution for Healthy Cosmetics

Cosmetic creators cannot do without chemistry. Products must be pleasant to apply, the formula must be stable and keep well to allow us to benefit from the natural active ingredients.

Green chemistry, also known as sustainable or ecological chemistry, develops solutions for obtaining new healthy ingredients. It is based on 12 founding principles including:

  • the use of renewable raw materials;

  • improving the energy efficiency of its manufacturing processes;

  • the prevention of pollution and contamination;

  • maintaining biodegradability.

Margerie adheres to these principles without compromise. All its raw materials come from green chemistry. The brand strives to have a global vision of its products and their life cycle. It knows where they come from, how they work, and how they will decompose and return to nature.

The association between heavy chemistry and cosmetics is not without consequences for our health and our environment. From the complex processes of petrochemistry to the final use of these ingredients in our hygiene and beauty products, each step leaves its often harmful mark. Margerie chooses green chemistry, a path forward for healthy and respectful cosmetics. Rigorously applying the precautionary principle, our products demonstrate our commitment to transparency, safety, and ethics.